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Like others in this forum I decided to modify Rovio so that it could be used in the dark. The additional headlights are Maglite 4 cell 3 watt LED modules for a total of 6 watts. They turn on automatically when the original headlight turns on. Did not realize how dirty Rovio had gotten until taking these pictures. This mod adds plenty of light to navigate Rovio in total darkness. Got the LED modules from WalMart and the rest of the parts from Radio Shack. The Radio Shack part numbers are on the schematic.
The Maglite 4 cell 3 watt LED modules are pretty cool because they have a built in DC to DC converter to keep the voltage and current at the optimum values for the LEDs.
Before:

After:

What it looks like:
Schematic:
LED Module:

Jim K.
opps
I put it together with only one mag 3 watt 4 cell and it worked for about 40 seconds and burned the bulb out. Rovio is working fine otherwise, his old lite is still working. Did I have to put in 3 lights? Obviously I am new at this.
Thank you for the anticipated help.
professorpg said: opps I put it together with only one mag 3 watt 4 cell and it worked for about 40 seconds and burned the bulb out. Rovio is working fine otherwise, his old lite is still working. Did I have to put in 3 lights? Obviously I am new at this. Thank you for the anticipated help.
When I tested my 2 Maglite LED setup, I noticed that they get H.O.T
. This was on the Rovio batteries. So, I hooked them up to 4 Regular AA Duracells, and they still heated up. Had them On for about 2 minutes, before I started to get nervious.
So I found some Flashlights with Aluminium Housing, to mount the LEDs in. Hopefully this will displace the heat..
Here are some pictures, not finished yet. Will post more latter.


NOTE: I had to make a Aluminium insert to hold the LED in the center of the Flashlight body.

professorpg said: opps I put it together with only one mag 3 watt 4 cell and it worked for about 40 seconds and burned the bulb out. Rovio is working fine otherwise, his old lite is still working. Did I have to put in 3 lights? Obviously I am new at this. Thank you for the anticipated help.
Remenber you have to use the whole module and not just the little LED in the middle of the module. The module (as shown in the picture) is the DC to DC converter, heat sink, and monitor to set the correct current into the LED. The little LED in the middle must also make good contact through the heat conducting grease to the module case. I have left mine on for hours. If power is run directly to the little LED in the middle without the module it will burn out. Take the module back to the store and tell them it did not work.
It should work fine with only one module.
I like your bike.
Jim K.
dCon0ne said:professorpg said: opps I put it together with only one mag 3 watt 4 cell and it worked for about 40 seconds and burned the bulb out. Rovio is working fine otherwise, his old lite is still working. Did I have to put in 3 lights? Obviously I am new at this. Thank you for the anticipated help.When I tested my 2 Maglite LED setup, I noticed that they get H.O.T. This was on the Rovio batteries. So, I hooked them up to 4 Regular AA Duracells, and they still heated up. Had them On for about 2 minutes, before I started to get nervious.
So I found some Flashlights with Aluminium Housing, to mount the LEDs in. Hopefully this will displace the heat..
Here are some pictures, not finished yet. Will post more l
Cool! I like your set up. The flashlight lens should also focus the light better.
I have run mine for a long time without any additional heat sink and they seem to run fine. The modules appear to be thermally protected. It will decrease the current if it gets too hot. They do run pretty warm though. I used epoxy to hold the modules in Rovio. That helped to coduct the heat into the shell of Rovio. It runs cool enough that I can still hold my finger on it after several minutes of operation. As the spec states they will dissipate 3 Watts of energy. It does not give any spec on how much light it will put out. They seem to be pretty bright though.
Jim K.
CREE R2 Superfire 6P


12m turn on a light

6m

10cm

Sit of copper and the light cup of aluminum strengthen to transmit heat



Short circuit electric resistance
ballxpyy, can you post a more verbal explanation? You appear to be explaining something about heat sinks on a light (for Rovio I hope) but your image links are broken. Please re-post and clarify.
Need some assitance. I'm trying this mod and get teh circuit to work, when I flip the switch it doesn't work. So i tried the circuit without the built in light, still nothing. So I Flipped the diode around connected to the leds and it comes on, but the Relay gets stuck on.
Is there anyway to do this without connecting the built in light?
I see the battery is a 6v and the realy is a 5v is that why it's getting stuck ?
Please Help!
Mofetti said: Need some assitance. I'm trying this mod and get teh circuit to work, when I flip the switch it doesn't work. So i tried the circuit without the built in light, still nothing. So I Flipped the diode around connected to the leds and it comes on, but the Relay gets stuck on. Is there anyway to do this without connecting the built in light? I see the battery is a 6v and the realy is a 5v is that why it's getting stuck ? Please Help!
You do not need to hook up the internal LED. If you do not hook up the internal LED, you do not need the 150 ohm resistor or the diode connected to it.
The relay is running from the regulated 5 Volt supply inside of Rovio. The 6 Volts is for the 6 Volt 3 Watt LED Module. The relay should not stick.
Jim K.
Thnx for the quick reply i'll try it that way. It seems evrytime I start the lights the relay sticks hmm I bought 4 on the third one now.
Can u think of why when I wire it up that way it only works with the diode in reverse of your diagram?
I guess the main thing is why does it keep sticking hmmm.
Mofetti said: Thnx for the quick reply i'll try it that way. It seems evrytime I start the lights the relay sticks hmm I bought 4 on the third one now. Can u think of why when I wire it up that way it only works with the diode in reverse of your diagram? I guess the main thing is why does it keep sticking hmmm.
It should not work at all if the diode across the relay is put in backwards. In fact is should burn up and smoke the diode. The other diode is for the internal LED and is not needed if you are not using the internal LED. Are you shure you have the white wire cut and have the relay coil connected to the lead going to the Rovio computer board and not the lead going to front LED board?
All I can think of is check the wiring to make sure it is correct. Several people have built it and it works fine. The LED Modules get real warm after they have been on for awhile and some folks have added heat sinks to keep them cool. No one else has reported the relay sticking.
Jim K.
I'll let you u know how it goes thnx again. Btw it was the diode in line with the white wire to light board and not the one on the relay
I got it works great thnx for the help. It was user error to **** excited lol.
Btw thx for the quick reply. I'll throw up some pics soon
Thanks for the info! I just copied this on mine.
Some changes. I got the two giant LEDs that RadioShack sells, and I pulled the laser out of a 4.5v flashlight in a big pack HomeDepot was selling.
I put the laser in place of the original headlight LED...just had to drill out the whole a little bit.
The BIG LEDs that I used I simply have stuck out between the upper and lower plastic shells...the leads on the LEDs are wedged between the two halves, and I used that to bend and align the LEDs.
I used one 100 ohm resistor to drop the current for all these parts...I probably could have used something around 60 ohms...but I wanted to err on the safe side.
The only difficulty I had was the first diode I pulled out of my parts bin didn't allow the circuit to work...but the second one did.
...and luckily no smoke escaped during this project...
BTW I used this web site for my resistor calculations...http://metku.net/index.html?sect=view&n=1&path=mods/ledcalc/index_eng
And this one to decode the resistor markings...
http://home.att.net/~srschmitt/script_resistor_color.html
I will try to throw up a couple of photos tonight after it gets dark.
Sooo I think I hurt my rovio today.
I was attempting to add headlights with 2 leds and a relay.
I connected the - from battery to the COM on the relay and the - from the leds to the N.O. on the relay
Then I connected the + from battery to one end of the coil on the relay and the white wire that controls the original led to the other side of the coil.
It operated the new lights for a second then they went out, now i cant control the original led anymore. I think I must have burned something out.
The relay and light setup i made works fine but I no longer have a remote control source to hook it to.
I have temporarily used the - from battery to close the relay and the new lights are permanently on but this is less than ideal (although after 6 hours the leds are fine and not getting hot)
Any suggestions?
Great forum and a really great thread. This is my first post, cherry status in effect.
Just got my Rovio yesterday. So far, I have nothing too terrible to report. The lighting was a problem, but since he was brand spanking new I didn't want to crack him open and start cutting wires.
I came up with a non-invasive (well at least to the rovio) lighting solution. So far, I only have one light, but will add at least one more. I had some mini-switches laying around from an arcade machine I built a few years back. With some velcro, a Coleman mini LED stocking stuffer and just a bit of soldering I have something I can at least navigate in the dark with (now...only if it could climb stairs).
Basically, I used the mini-switch on the rear deck, at the point where the neck meets the body. To turn the light on I just raise the neck to the mid position, this opens the switch and the flashlight is turned on. Not elegant or sophisticated, but it works.


Excellent non-invasive mod, very clever to use the neck's movement to switch on. Stair climbing's is still pretty far from the domestic robot's current stage of development.

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Cool!