Wall-E Robot

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RobosapienV2-4mem8
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Wall-E Robot

This is my Wall-E project that I am currently working on it is 150mm x 150mm x 160 high, it uses a pair of Mattracks for motive power and two robosapienV2 hip motors. It will be controlled by a BS2P40 stamp cpu and will have the following functions described below. I build robots quite prolific but my let down is programing [hopeless but learning] I have a friend at Robocommunity GWjax who is programing it for me, From this I hope to learn how this program is put together and eventually program myself. We are in the progress of designing the H-bridge for the motors using the L298 chip, The head is finished apart from his adorable eyebrows [which maybe Nitinol wire or Muscle flex]and pan/tilt has been run.
The main reason for building this project was to see if I could use parts from my stock of components that I have lying around my basement and electronics room, The only thing so far that I have had to buy is the Mattracks,uOLED screen and L298 H-bridge ic. Which GWJax is sending me. I was inspired to build this project after seeing a Pixar demo video and thought WOW what a neat bot to build. I have been in R/C scale and other unorthodox aircraft for over 30yrs and modeling is my passion, so this comes in handy when creating something like Wall-E. I hope you like how it is coming along. I would also like to add that GWJax has been an inspiration to me on the programming side.The main construction of Wall-E is 5mm lite ply, sides,front,back and top, with 2mm balsa cladding on the sides with some 1.5mm ply to form the raised panels. Rivets were made using PVA glue watered down 40% and applied to the required area's with a sharp pointed rod, One dip will give you 3 rivets. The arms were constructed out of 1.5mm ply and balsa, and uses 4 of my Technics air rams back to back, The fingers were modded Technics angle beams covered in 1mm ply for the sides and balsa top and bottom. The base is constructed out of 5mm Acrylic sheet as this is good for boring holes to mount your fittings. the head [H'mmm a real challenge here] I had to draw it out first to get the pear shaped eye right then work from there. The main eye tube was a pair of alloy pill containers which worked out to be the right size for the head. The Blue LEDs x 6, 3 in each eye are mounted on a 5mm acrylic disc and inserted in the tube about 2/3rds down, then another Acrylic disc in front with the ping sonar in each eye.The ping sonar from [Parallax] TX and RX had to be removed from the board [tricky] and an extension lead [screened] run from the board to the Tx and RX in each eye. I was not sure at the time if this would alter the characteristics of the range, but after testing this was unfounded. The eyes light up at present using a circuit which has a CDS cell and when you switch the lights of the eyes come on, GWJax may code this to work also with some other functions on Wall-E.Wall-E was finished with off the shelf spraykote enamel cans, grey primer, followed by antirust primer, then layered with yellow, rivets applied, then sliver over the rivet area, followed by an airbrushed rust over the rivets. The whole body was then rubbed with scotchbrite pads until the rust and some silver was showing through, then airbrushed with a mix of satin varnish and grey primer to give Wall-E that weathered effect.The head was done in a similar way but with different colors. Phew, I think that's it guys.

1. Use my Mattracks as the main drive unit
2. Motor drive gear motors using H bridge controllers
3. Pan/tilt head using Parallax ultra sonic ping
4. 3 GP2D12 IR edge detectors or similar detectors
5. raise and lower the arms as a pair [up and down only]
6. raise and lower the front door
7. [Maybe not sure yet] raise and lower the head
8.Use Parallax ping in both eyes
9. airbrush Wall-E to look authentic as possible.
10. Fit a uOLED in the front panel
11. Use a Parallax emic text to speech chip for wall-e's voice
12. Fit Ultra bright blue LEDs in Wall-E's eyes
13. Make a pair of H bridges for the drive motors
14. solar cell to charge batteries
15. voice changer circuit for Emic text to speech
16. Speaker

MrScott
MrScott's picture

That's a lot more ambitious than my meager plans for adapting an RC Diablo BattleBot for a Wall-E.

Our regular viewers know I have a large collection of 1:6 scale figures, including bots. That's the scale I'm looking towards. 

GWJax
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Always looking at the butt are you.LOL Why limit the arms as one? make them independant. It would look better if they where. And nice platform you picked out. The head must move up and down and make it comptete AI controlled. no user interface unless firmware must be updated. and don't forget the sounds and lights. Am I making it harder on you yet? If not give me a little bit longer, I will. For batteries I'd use the R/C controlled Batteries with at least 3600 mAh and make it a dule pack. Oh and a self docking station. can't forget that one.

At least with my Elvinator "small plug for my project"  I can use a wall jack. hahaha With all the amps this thing is pulling the batteries wont do the trick for long.

GWJax

RobosapienV2-4mem8
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Nice one MrScott, Look forward to your creation. Mine is a bit ambitious, Just hope I can pull it of now I've said I'm going to, Ha Ha.

RobosapienV2-4mem8
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Here are a couple of pics, Gotta start somewhere.

Mattracks, Parallax HB25 servo and motor controllers, and yes a pair of low geared Rsv2 leg motors and two metal geared servos, I,3 amp gelcel. May not use any of these yet Except the mattracks, just doodling at present.

RobosapienV2-4mem8
RobosapienV2-4mem8's picture

GWJax said: Always looking at the butt are you.LOL Why limit the arms as one? make them independant. It would look better if they where. And nice platform you picked out. The head must move up and down and make it comptete AI controlled. no user interface unless firmware must be updated. and don't forget the sounds and lights. Am I making it harder on you yet? If not give me a little bit longer, I will. For batteries I'd use the R/C controlled Batteries with at least 3600 mAh and make it a dule pack. Oh and a self docking station. can't forget that one. At least with my Elvinator "small plug for my project"  I can use a wall jack. hahaha With all the amps this thing is pulling the batteries wont do the trick for long. GWJax

  Yes you are making it harder for me, [But what else would I come to expect from you] Are you bearing in mind that the BS2p40 range of stamps has to accomodate all of these functions within the 20ms period and servos would take most of this. Unless we use a co-processor, I do have two of Harry's [Bluebell design co-processors but these are in use by other bots. How much processing power does the Parallax psc 16 channel servo controller use?????.

GWJax
GWJax's picture

Forget most of the parallex cooponents, Well build them to what we need or at least you will. hehehe I see the propeller chip comming in handy now, and I'm going to us them in the Elvinator. This is the only thing I can think of when it comes to speed and alot of i/o and running eeproms and connecting another propeller to it. I'll have enough power to run mine and yours at the same time. Buy the chip its only 12.99 and add the rest of the components for about 10 bucks more. Although I'll have to see if I can use the 50Mhz chip instead of the 20Mhz in this chip. Do you know?

the 16 channel I beleive only uses 3 pins for all 16 and add another one to get 32 I/O lines. But you have 32 i/o lins on the bs2p40 so your looking at 64 i/o lines I think you'll have enough. as of the power it does not come from the basic stamp its self it has it's own power supply that you provide. the BS can only handle upto 100ma so use them only for switching through hbridges. GWJax

RobosapienV2-4mem8
RobosapienV2-4mem8's picture

Don't know to much about the prop chip, I do know that it is great for robotics. The only trouble living in NZ is that it cost heaps to get anything from the states. It would cost me $50 nz for the chip and I would get a board to fit it, It's the freight that's the killer. Parallax only uses two types of freight Fedex and UPs both have a standing charge of about $70-100 US so makes it very expensive. Plus it would mean learning another code, spin. Also you might need the prop stick USB for programming it $79.95 US. Or the prop starter kit At $99.00 Us this all adds up to quite a bit nz wise. So it would have been nice to use the BS2P40 As I HAVE ALL THE PARTS. But it may not handle all the requirements needed.

GWJax
GWJax's picture

The prop chip only cost 12.95 us and you have to add the 20 mhz res to it pluss an eeprom instaed of buying the the complete chip set with these parts added to 1 chip. the programing is almost like the pbasic code so you would not have to learn an entirly new lang just the structure of it.  I'll PM you with more options. GWJa

and you don't have to buy the usb jump connector there are otherways around it.

milw
milw's picture

Nice plan, 4mem8. I'm sure you'll come up with a reasonably priced alternative to the Prop (say, why don't you become the NZ distributor for Parallax? then they can pay the shipping and you can turn a profit!). I didn't make it to the movie theater today, I'll try tomorrow (Sunday here in US). I'm sure they'll think I'm crazy to be taking pictures of the backend of a marketing prop!

So what are the dimensions on the Matracks? If those are standard servos, I'd say it looks like the main body might be a cube about 6 inches on a side? Maybe as much as 8"?

cheers- Scott 

RobosapienV2-4mem8
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GWjax: Look forward to the options.

Milw: I

have already tried the with Parallax, There is already a distributor in NZ, But they do not stock a great deal, You have to wait till they get enough orders then they send to the US for it. To slow for me. Plus you would need a fair bit of doh to buy the products.

 The Mattracks are !60mmL x 100mmH x 50mmW A decent size so you are not far of being between 6-8" Sq. So you have a prop of Wall-E Milw, that would be great if you can acquire that for me.

Nocturnal
Nocturnal's picture

Once again your getting ripped off in NZ. I can pickup a prop chip for $24.20AUD, and they throw in a  suitable crystal and eeprom. The demo board is $220AUD. 

RobosapienV2-4mem8
RobosapienV2-4mem8's picture

Yeah, Tell me about it Nocturnal, I might just have to buy from Aussie, Exchange rate is pretty good.

Got a good link Nocturnal? 

Nocturnal
Nocturnal's picture

I haven't bought anything off them, so I can't make a personal recomendation, but there is

http://www.nollet.com.au/pricelist.htm

RobosapienV2-4mem8
RobosapienV2-4mem8's picture

M'mmm It's cheaper to buy from the states.Example: BS2P40 $89 U.S = $111.97 NZ. Aussie $132.00 = $150.52NZ.

NZ link.http://www.basicstamps.co.nz/productspage.htm

BS2P40 $160.00

Nocturnal
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Until you have to pay shipping and import duties.

RobosapienV2-4mem8
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Just depends on who I get to send it, Sometimes I do not get charged duty.

milw
milw's picture

Here's some reference photos of the movie theater prop- it's big- sitting on a 1m^3 box and I'd say he's also about 1m high. These are linked to the full res images (2 Mb jpeg, 5 megapixel).

Back:
WallE back

Right:
WallE Right
 

Front:
WallE Front

Left:
WallE Left

RobosapienV2-4mem8
RobosapienV2-4mem8's picture

Milw: Brilliant pics, Thanks a bunch. One thing I noticed is that your pics of the rear end show the door to be in this area, In the movie it shows it in the front??

Nocturnal
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If you watch the trailer again you'll see its the right way around. The yellow panel on the front is the door / hatch.

RobosapienV2-4mem8
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That's what I thought Nocturnal, Just looking at the Pics the door rams appear to be at the rear?

GWJax
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Milw, Nice job. Man I would love to have that prop.

4mem8, Hurry up on the first article so I can get started on the Wall-E along with the Elvinator. They would be a good match togeather, Have Wall-E pick up Elvinator and carry him around so he can see the rest of his surroundings. Or at least communicate with each other and have Wall-E do the Elivinators business in destroying all of his computition except his creator. Which would be me of course. LOL GWJax

GWJax
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Here's a great Vid on the construction of Wall-E incase you have not seen it yet

GWJax

RobosapienV2-4mem8
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GWjax: I do not have the time as you may have, But I will do my best. Have seen the video, Thanks for posting it here. Definatley front loading.

GWJax
GWJax's picture

No prob. 4mem8 I was just kidding on you getting out your first article but I can't wait for it. And mine should arive live on Monday I hope. GWJax

RobosapienV2-4mem8
RobosapienV2-4mem8's picture

Well i have decided to use this configuiration using two of my RSV2 geared foot motors. I can now start planning the rest.

Wall-E here we come.

RobosapienV2-4mem8
RobosapienV2-4mem8's picture

Saturday 7:26 NZ time, Off to do some work on Wall-E, Start making the base after acquiring two sets of bearings for the mattracks and nylon hex rod that connect the gearmotors to the mattracks.

MrScott
MrScott's picture

Any chance that you're going to make this a movie accurate robot that can fold itself up inside it's "crate"?

That's one of the endearing qualities of the personality hinted at in the film trailors. WALL-E will turn turtle and pull himself completely into his chassis when startled. The top and bottom of the cargo/crushing box must fold out of the way for the tracks to go up, and the head to go down, into the cube.

Did you catch the WALL-E commercial that aired during the SuperBowl game?

RobosapienV2-4mem8
RobosapienV2-4mem8's picture

Ha Ha Ha, Thanks MrScott, I had not seen that video. AND NO I am NOT going to make Wall-E fold in on himself, I am going to have enough trouble making him as it is without that suggestion!! But now you have brought it up GWjax will want me to implement that as well!. Nice one  [ Thanks MrScott !!]

GWJax
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Ya, Put him in his box. What a great Idea Mr Scott, LOL sorry 4mem8 you must now take that on as well. Go all the way with it if your going to make Wall-E. hehehehehehe GWJax

RobosapienV2-4mem8
RobosapienV2-4mem8's picture

D**n you two, As if I havn't got enough headaches. Just been aligning the bearings and hex shafts to the motors, Might post a pic later.

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